The basic purpose of a pair of fins is to move you through the water much more efficiently than if we were just flapping our arms and legs around which are pretty much useless once you have added bulky equipment and drag into the equation. You might

<p>The basic purpose of a pair of fins is to move you through the water much more efficiently than if we were just flapping our arms and legs around which are pretty much useless once you have added bulky equipment and drag into the equation. You might think that one set of fins is the same as another set but there are actually a number of different styles and technologies at work. On top of that different types of diving can favour a certain style of fin because it is better suited for the environment.</p><p>If you are in the market for a new pair of fins but are not sure how each type of fin differs then this scuba diving fin guide will help to explain the different blade technologies and look at some of the features available.</p><h2 id="the-anatomy-of-a-dive-fin"><span class="wysiwyg-underline">The Anatomy of a Dive Fin</span></h2><p><span class="wysiwyg-underline"><img src="https://hsfiles.gorgias.help/help-centers/364/articles/8xkss2of0y/1580913726996/fin-diagram.png" alt="fin-diagram.png" width="644" height="439" class="fr-fic fr-dii"></span></p><h2 id="the-foot-pocket"><span class="wysiwyg-underline">The Foot Pocket</span></h2><p>The first decision you&apos;ll need to make is whether you want a pair of fins with an open heel or a full foot pocket. For most diving, you&apos;ll need an open heel pocket that can accommodate neoprene and drysuit boots as well as being heavier and stiffer to provide better propulsion for a bulky dive kit. Full foot fins are significantly lighter, make great pool fins or if you are diving somewhere nice and hot where you&apos;ll be diving with bare feet or with just a pair of fin socks.</p><p>&#xA0;</p><h2 id="the-fins-strap"><span class="wysiwyg-underline">The Fins Strap</span></h2><p>If you go for an open heel fin you&apos;ll come across a variety of fin strap types ranging from a basic adjustable rubber strap to stretchy spring or bungee straps. The basic strap is simply loosened to allow it to fit over the heel and then pulled tight to secure the foot in the pocket.</p><p>There are variants including expanding buckles that all the strap tightness to be set and then expanding sections released for donning and doffing before securing back in place to tighten.</p><p>The most common type of straps found on high-end fins is spring or bungee straps that are very quick and easy to fit by simply pulling the strap over the heel. The spring or elasticity of the strap then provides a comfortable pull to keep your foot in the pocket.</p><p>Most fins can be upgraded from a rubber adjustable strap to a spring or bungee strap by either fitting a manufacturer-specific kit or a universal strap kit.</p><p>&#xA0;</p><h2 id="the-fin-blade"><span class="wysiwyg-underline">The Fin Blade</span></h2><p>From this point, onward fin design can vary greatly from a simple paddle-style fin to hinging designs that are designed to angle the blade for optimal thrust. There are generally a couple of standardised elements of the blade though.</p><p>The sidebars or rails that run the length of the fin are what gives the blade its strength, preventing the blade from just flopping around and giving it a carefully calculated bending profile.</p><p>The other little features that crop up on a lot of fins are winglets. They perform the same function as on aeroplanes, helping to reduce drag as water is pushed over and along the blade.</p><h2 id="standard-paddle-blade"><span class="wysiwyg-underline">Standard Paddle Blade</span></h2><p>This is the simplest blade type that uses a single material blade between the sidebars that may or may not feature winglets are raised bars that run the length of the blade to help control the water down the blade. This style of the fin is often the most cost-effective but will usually perform poorly compared to other styles.</p><ul><li><a href="https://www.mikesdivestore.com/collections/fins/products/scubapro-go-travel-fin" rel="noopener" target="_blank">Scubapro Go Travel Fins</a></li><li><a href="https://www.mikesdivestore.com/collections/fins/products/tusa-solla-strap-fins?variant=715212633#foo&amp;gid=1&amp;pid=1" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">TUSA Solla Strap Fins</a></li><li><a href="https://www.mikesdivestore.com/collections/fins/products/fourth-element-tech-fins?variant=#foo&amp;gid=1&amp;pid=6" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">Fourth Element Tech Fins</a></li></ul><h2 id="channel-blade"><span class="wysiwyg-underline">Channel Blade</span></h2><p>The Channel blade builds upon the paddle blade by using at least one more material within the blade that is more flexible to create panels. These flexible panels allow the blade to transform into a U shape during the kick cycle, effectively cupping the water and channelling it down the blade in a very controlled manner. The rigid panels within the blade prevent it from over flexing and maintaining its shape.</p><ul><li><a href="https://www.mikesdivestore.com/collections/fins/products/mares-avanti-quattro-plus-fins" rel="noopener" target="_blank">Mares Avanti Quattro Plus Fins</a></li><li><a href="https://www.mikesdivestore.com/collections/fins/products/fourth-element-rec-fins?variant=39655553597515#foo&amp;gid=1&amp;pid=9" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">Fourth Element REC Fins</a></li><li><a href="https://www.mikesdivestore.com/collections/fins/products/tusa-imprex-duo-diving-fin?variant=17493889409#foo&amp;gid=1&amp;pid=2" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">TUSA Imprex Duo Fins</a></li></ul><h2 id="split-fins"><span class="wysiwyg-underline">Split Fins</span></h2><p>Split fins tend to be more expensive but can offer one of the most comfortable and energy-efficient kicking cycles out of all the blade types. The blade draws upon principles that nature has been using for a really long time within birds wings and is similar to how plane wings work.</p><p>The theory is that high pressure is created on one side and low pressure on the other, effectively pushing the diver through the water. In practice split, fins offer a lighter kick that needs less force and stress on the ankle.</p><ul><li><a href="https://www.mikesdivestore.com/collections/fins/products/atomic-splitfin-open-heel" rel="noopener" target="_blank">Atomic Splitfin Open Heel Fins</a></li><li><a href="https://www.mikesdivestore.com/collections/fins/products/scubapro-twin-jet-fins" rel="noopener" target="_blank">Scubapro Twin Jet Fins</a></li><li><a href="https://www.mikesdivestore.com/collections/fins/products/mares-raptor-fins" rel="noopener" target="_blank">Mares Raptor Fins</a></li></ul><h2 id="hinge--pivot-fins"><span class="wysiwyg-underline">Hinge / Pivot Fins</span></h2><p>Hinge or Pivot fins can combine any of the above blade designs but what sets them apart is the hinging point just below the foot pocket that alters the blade angle of attack to maximise thrust whilst reducing the stress and strain felt through the ankle. Some designs use a special rail that allows the blade to bend to a maximum angle whilst some use a pivot and bungee system.</p><ul><li><a href="https://www.mikesdivestore.com/products/scubapro-seawing-supernova-fins?variant=39703525195851#foo&amp;gid=1&amp;pid=3" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">Scubapro Seawing &#xA0;SuperNova Fins</a></li></ul><h2 id="other-common-features"><span class="wysiwyg-underline">Other Common Features</span></h2><h2 id="blade-vents"><span class="wysiwyg-underline">Blade Vents</span></h2><p>Vents are quite common on fins are quite often seen just below the foot pocket where there is little water flow over the fin. Without a vent, you end up just trying to push the water around without is created any propulsion for you. The vent allows this water to pass through the blade, reducing effort and drag on the fin.</p><h2 id="perforated--vented-foot-pockets"><span class="wysiwyg-underline">Perforated / Vented Foot Pockets</span></h2><p>Foot pockets have a tendency of sealing around your boot or foot during use which is fine whilst you are diving but breaking the seal and vacuum behind it when taking your fins off can be difficult. By perforating or venting the foot pocket air and water can get in around the foot to prevent that seal and vacuum from forming.</p><p>As an additional bonus, it can also help to reduce the parachute effect of water flowing into the foot pocket and reducing efficiency.</p>

How to choose the best Fins

Replacing the hoses on your regulator should be relatively easy job that most divers would happily do themselves but identifying which hose you need can sometimes be a little tricker. For the most part regulators use two different fittings, one for l

<p id="isPasted">Replacing the hoses on your regulator should be relatively easy job that most divers would happily do themselves but identifying which hose you need can sometimes be a little tricker.</p><p>For the most part regulators use two different fittings, one for low pressure supplied to the second stage and another for high pressure for contents gauges and transmitters, which prevents the wrong hose being inserted into the&#xA0;wrong port. Generally, low pressure uses a 3/8&quot; threaded hose and high pressure uses a 7/16&quot; hose. However, in their infinite wisdom, some manufacturers currently use or have used other sizes (most commonly a 1/2&quot; port) for the low pressure side. Manufacturers tend to complicate things by naming certain low pressure ports as &apos;High Flow Ports&apos; or something similar but all this is means is that these ports offer the most efficient gas flow path and has no bearing on the hose itself.</p><p>The other thing you&apos;ll need to decide upon is what type of hose you need. There are two options, the traditional rubber hose or the more modern braided hose. A good percentage of manufacturers already fit the modern braided hose for a variety reasons but some also continue to use rubber hoses for their own reasons. Scubapro, for instance, still uses a rubber hose as they believe their larger bore superflow hoses offer a performance benefit. Braided hoses, like the&#xA0;<a href="https://www.mikesdivestore.com/collections/miflex" rel="noopener noreferrer" style=" text-decoration: underline 1px;" target="_blank" title="Miflex Hoses">Miflex Hose</a> range, have a lot of advantages over rubber hoses though. They are lighter, tougher, better flexibility, have a higher burst pressure for safety and have better resistance against UV and contaminant damage.</p><p>Whichever hose you get in the end it is important to remember that when fitting your new hose they should only be tightened to 5Nm of torque or, if you don&apos;t have a torque spanner to hand, just over hand tight. Any more than this and you risk crushing the o-ring seal and potentially striping the soft brass threads in the first stage.</p><p>&#xA0;</p><h2 id="first-stage-ports">First Stage Ports</h2><p>Every first stage will have at least one high pressure port which is normally identifiable by the large size or &apos;HP&apos; stamped into the body next to it and the hose itself only has a pinpoint hole to&#xA0;restrict air flow in the highly unlikely&#xA0;event of your high pressure hose rupturing. It will also have a number of low pressure ports (ranging from two to five) which will either be on the main body of the first stage or within a swivelling turret. Regulators that feature a 1/2&quot; low pressure port will only have one of these ports which is intended for supplying the primary second stage (larger bore = better air flow).</p><p>If you are ever in doubt about what size fitting you need, simply measure it from thread crest to crest across the opening of the hose fitting.</p><p><strong>High pressure swivel spool&#xA0;</strong>- These little components are essential in creating a sealing swivel on your pressure gauge and you absolutely need one. Pressure gauges already fitted to a hose already have a swivel spool fitted but if you buy a gauge by itself they rarely come with one so remember to get one. Divers fitting a wireless transmitter to a short length of high pressure hose will also need a&#xA0;<a href="https://www.mikesdivestore.com/products/3496-beaver-high-pressure-straight-hose-swivel" rel="noopener noreferrer" style=" text-decoration: underline 1px;" target="_blank" title="Beaver High Pressure Spool">high pressure swivel spool</a> to properly seal the swivel connection.</p><p>&#xA0;</p><p><strong>Regulator First Stages that use 3/8&quot;UNF Low Pressure Ports</strong></p><ul><li>All current Apeks</li><li>All current Aqua Lung</li><li>All Cressi</li><li>All Dive Rite</li><li>All Oceanic</li><li>All Scubapro</li><li>All Seac Sub</li><li>Mares 2S, 12S &amp; 52 first&#xA0;Stages</li></ul><p><strong>Regulator&#xA0;First Stages that use a 1/2&quot;UNF Low Pressure Port</strong></p><ul><li>Some older Apeks</li><li>Mares 22 first&#xA0;Stage</li></ul><h3 id="what-are-the-standard-hose-lengths">What Are The Standard Hose Lengths?</h3><p>Replacement hoses are available in a wide range of lengths and, if you opt for a braided hose, a choice of colours as well. Whilst there is no restriction on what hose length you fit there are pros and cons to changing from the standard length. Fitting a longer hose adds flexibility and reduce strain but can cause kinks, increase drag and create snagging hazards. Fitting a shorter hose may make hose routing neater but potentially restricting freedom of movement.</p><p>For reference, the typical standard hose lengths are below but will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and potentially even between sizes.</p><ul><li>Primary second stage -&#xA0;75cm</li><li>Alternate air source / octopus - 90cm standard, commonly changed for a 100cm</li><li>BCD inflator hoses - 65cm</li><li>Drysuit inflator hose - 75cm but will depend on routing</li><li>Pressure gauges - 90cm</li></ul><p><a href="https://www.mikesdivestore.com/collections/diving-hoses" style=" text-decoration: underline 1px;">Shop All Hoses</a></p><h3 id="safe-second-stages">Safe Second Stages</h3><p>Safe Second stages like the Scubapro Air2 and Atomic SS1 incorporate the octopus into the BCD inflator, getting rid of length of hose entirely and keeps your redundant second stage close to hand at all times. These units use a different quick disconnect to the one used on a normal inflator but the hose itself is the same as a regulator hose with the addition of an adapter on the end.</p><p>Of course there are a couple of different adapters so make sure you get the right one if you need to replace the hose / adapter.</p><ul><li>For the Apeks Octo Plus, SeaQuest AirSource (including 1, 2 and AirSource3 QD), Zeagle Octo-Plus, Aqualung Air Mic, Mares Air Control, Beauchat Venturi, US Divers Air Mic, Oceanic Air XS, Aeris AirLink and compatible BCDs.</li><li>For the Scubapro Air II, Tusa Duo-Air, Sherwood Gemini, DiveRite RiteSource, H2Odyssea Inflator plus, Atomic Aquatics SS1 or Zeagle Octo-Z Breathable and compatible BCDs.</li></ul>

Which Hose Do I Need?

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